Care

Shedding — or ecdysis — is a normal and regular part of a bearded dragon's life. Young dragons shed frequently as they grow rapidly. Adults shed less often. The process is driven by growth, not by any external trigger.

The skin will begin to dull and appear grey or pale before a shed. The dragon may be slightly less active and less interested in food. This is normal. Do not attempt to assist the shed unless there is a specific problem.

Maintain correct temperatures. A shallow lukewarm bath for 10–15 minutes can assist if the shed appears to be taking longer than expected or if patches are remaining. Do not pull at retained shed.

WATCH THESE AREAS CLOSELY Toes · Tail tip · Around the eyes. Retained shed in these areas can constrict blood flow and cause serious damage. If retained shed does not come away with bathing, seek advice from a reptile vet.

Avoid handling during active shedding unless necessary. The dragon is uncomfortable and may be more reactive than usual. Allow the process to complete before resuming normal handling.

Bathing is not essential. A supervised bath can be used when there is a specific practical reason, such as a retained shed or cleaning a soiled dragon. Do not bathe on a weekly schedule as routine care.

METHOD Use a shallow container — the water should come no higher than the dragon's shoulders. Lukewarm water (approximately 35°C) is appropriate. Allow the dragon to soak for 10–15 minutes. Never leave the dragon unattended.

There is no need to dry your dragon after a bath. Simply return it to the enclosure and allow it to warm up under the basking light. The heat will dry it naturally.

Some dragons will drink during a bath. This is completely normal. Fresh drinking water must always be available in a clean bowl, and hydration is also obtained through food.

This is common — warm water can stimulate bowel movements. Empty, clean, and refill the bath if this happens. It is not a cause for concern.

Our dragons are raised on crickets as a staple live food, with dubia roaches introduced alongside them. Start with crickets. Once your dragon is eating confidently, you can begin introducing other live foods.

Yes — but not within 3 hours of lights off. Allow the enclosure to reach full temperature first. Offer food as part of the normal daily routine from day one.

This is normal. Do not force feed. Do not hand feed. Leave food in the enclosure and maintain the routine. Most dragons begin eating within 1–2 days. Some take a little longer.

No. Keep food consistent. Changing things constantly creates confusion and delays the settling-in process. Stick with crickets and fresh vegetables until eating is established.

Yes. A few spare crickets or dubia roaches can be left in the enclosure between feeds. Vegetables should be replaced each morning with fresh food.

Fusion does not recommend mealworms as a staple or regular food, particularly for young dragons. They are relatively high in fat and have an unfavourable calcium-to-phosphorus balance. Their hard outer layer is often blamed for impaction, but a direct species-specific causal link has not been established; overall husbandry, hydration, diet and the individual animal also matter.

Check your setup thoroughly. If everything is correct and the dragon is still not eating, contact us directly. Do not make changes to the setup out of frustration before checking in.

Wait until your dragon is eating happily before introducing regular handling. For most dragons, this is within the first few days. Do not delay once eating is established — early handling builds confidence and trust.

TECHNIQUE Approach from the side, not from above. Scoop under the body and support the full length. Avoid sudden movements and keep sessions calm. Handling is about building trust through consistency — not force, not speed.

Running, defensive posturing or attempting to bite can occur when a dragon feels threatened. Stay calm, approach from the side and avoid chasing it repeatedly around the enclosure. If the dragon is highly distressed, end the attempt safely and try a shorter, lower-pressure interaction later. Fusion builds confidence through calm consistency, but the response and pace should be adjusted to the individual animal.

Start with sessions of around 5 minutes. Gradually increase as confidence builds. Daily handling is far more effective than occasional long sessions. Consistency is what builds trust.

It is feeling threatened. Top-down approaches, quick movements, and inconsistent handling all trigger the flight response. Slow down, approach from the side, and handle daily.

Do not wait indefinitely for perfect behaviour before beginning gentle handling, but do respond to the dragon in front of you. Use calm, brief and predictable interactions. If fear or defensive behaviour is escalating, reduce the pressure and try again later rather than chasing or forcing a prolonged session.

Every dragon is different. In Fusion’s experience, many show noticeable improvement within approximately 2–4 weeks of calm, consistent handling and a correct setup. This is an observed timeframe rather than a guaranteed deadline. Progress depends on the individual dragon, its previous experiences, its environment and how handling is approached.

A black beard is a signal of arousal and can occur with stress, fear, discomfort, territorial or reproductive behaviour, and other contexts. During handling, assess the whole animal rather than treating colour alone as aggression or harmlessness. Reduce the intensity of the interaction if the dragon remains highly distressed and investigate persistent or unexplained changes.

Only with supervision. Children should be calm, gentle, and seated when handling. Do not allow unsupervised access, particularly with young dragons.